So You Wanna Road Trip Flores? Yes, You Absolutely Do.

Bali may be beautiful, but Flores? Flores is wild. It’s the untamed sister in Indonesia’s island family, dramatic volcanoes, tribal villages, endless bends in the road, and scenery that makes you stop mid-sentence.

Starting in Labuan Bajo and ending in Maumere, this overland Flores itinerary isn’t just a drive, it’s a story. Whether you’re in a car or, like I did, on a motorbike, you’ll find every day brings a new “wow, is this even real?” moment.

I rode across Flores in January 2020, right before the world flipped upside down. One helmet, one backpack, and no idea how life-changing it would be.

Getting Around: Car or Motorbike?

Car with Driver:

If you want comfort, AC, and local knowledge, this is the most relaxing way to do it.

Motorbike:

If you're craving freedom, flexibility, and the wind in your face, this is for the adventurers. The roads are twisty, narrow, and sometimes wild, but oh, the views.

Pro tip: Some rental shops in Labuan Bajo allow one-way rentals, so you can drop off the bike in Maumere. No need to ride back across the whole island.

I used Motor Adventure Bali-Labuan Bajo, their office is right in front of Labuan Bajo Komodo Airport.

Doing It on a Motorbike? Here’s What You Need to Know

I did the entire Flores overland trip on two wheels, and while it was incredible, here’s what I learned:

Wear proper gear: I brought my own helmet all the way from Bali and wore closed shoes every day. You’ll thank yourself.
Bring a 1L bottle of fuel in your backpack just in case. Gas stations can be sparse, and not every roadside stall has Pertalite when you need it.
Avoid riding at night. Not because it’s dangerous (Flores is safe in that regard), but because there are hardly any streetlights, road signs are minimal, and you'll miss all the scenery anyway.
Don’t expect card payments. Most warungs, petrol kiosks, and small shops only accept cash. Bring more than you think you’ll need.
Take it slow. This is not a speed-run kind of trip. Expect to average 30–40 km/h on mountain roads with occasional potholes and goats.

I paid IDR 2,700,000 for 12 days one-way motorbike rental (price in 2020, so it might be different now).

Before we dive in, here’s a video snippet of my little motorbike adventure in Flores:

The Ultimate 12-Day Overland Flores Itinerary

Let’s ride.

Day 1–2: Labuan Bajo – Mirror Cave – Melo Village – Wae Rebo Trek

Ease into your trip with some exploring around Labuan Bajo:

Batu Cermin (Mirror Cave): A cool little cave to kick off the geology geek in you.
Melo Village & the Caci Whip Dance: This traditional whip-fighting dance is a mix of cultural ritual, performance art, and testosterone-fueled pride. Dancers duel with whips, protected by wooden shields and elaborate costumes. It’s intense, spiritual, and absolutely worth seeing.

Then it’s off to Denge village, where you’ll start your trek to Wae Rebo, a remote mountaintop village of conical houses and deep traditions. No cell signal. No distractions. Just mountain mist and cultural magic.

Light pack, bug spray, and good shoes recommended for the hike!

Where I stayed: 1 night at Sunset Hill Labuan Bajo (IDR 700,000/night) + 1 night at Wae Rebo village (IDR 400,000/night/person).

Day 3: Wae Rebo – Ruteng (Don’t Forget a Sweater)

After hiking down, head to Ruteng, a charming hill town surrounded by lush farmland and colonial churches.

Spiderweb Rice Fields in Cancar: Ancient and stunning. Best seen from above for the full spiderweb effect.
Ruteng Pu’u Village: Great for a quick cultural walkabout.

PSA: Ruteng is cold. Like, actual hoodie-weather cold, especially at night. Pack accordingly. I’m talking layers, socks, and maybe a beanie.

Where I stayed: Spring Hill Hotel Ruteng (IDR 1,000,000/night)

Day 4: Ruteng – Bajawa (With Plenty of Stops)

The mountain scenery on this leg is epic, but take your time.

Lake Ranamese: Foresty, misty, ideal for a reflective break.
Aimere: Home of arak, the local firewater. Try a sample if you dare, but maybe not if you’re riding.

Arrive in Bajawa, check in, and chill out. Where I stayed: Manulalu Jungle Resort Bajawa (IDR 1,500,000/night).

Day 5: Bajawa – Culture, Coffee & Hot Springs

You’ve earned a slow day.

Bena & Luba Villages: Stone roads, sacred totems, buffalo skulls, and local ikat weavers.
So’a Hot Springs: Natural spa vibes surrounded by jungle.

Don’t leave without trying Bajawa coffee, strong, earthy, and grown right on these volcano-fed hills.

Day 6: Bajawa (Another Day to Unwind)

Because sometimes the best part of a trip is doing… not much.

Wander the local market
Visit more Ngada villages
Sit at a café and journal while sipping that famous local brew
Or go for a second soak at the hot springs (zero regrets)

Day 7: Bajawa – Riung (Bring on the Beach)

Roll down to sea level and into Riung, a sleepy coastal village with charm and salt in the air.

Bat Island (Pulau Ontoloe): Home to thousands of flying foxes. Yes, they’re big. No, they won’t eat you.

Day 8: Full Day in Riung – Snorkel, Picnic, Chill

Take a boat tour through the 17 Islands Marine Park, a stunning collection of white-sand beaches and colorful reefs. You’ll snorkel, swim, and eat lunch on a deserted island. Paradise, basically.

This is one of the best-kept secrets in Indonesia. Take your time and soak it in.

Where I stayed: Sangrila Mentos Riung (IDR 300,000/night)

Day 9: Riung – Ende (Stop & Refuel, Literally)

Drive to Ende, a city with a dash of history and some solid fried rice.

Pantai Batu Biru (Blue Stone Beach): Stop for a break and a few photos, those stones really are blue!
Optional: Visit Sukarno’s Exile House for a dose of Indonesian independence history.

Day 10: Ende – Moni (Gateway to Kelimutu)

Short but scenic drive to Moni, a quiet village near Mount Kelimutu. Expect flower gardens, friendly locals, and delicious banana pancakes.

SAGA Village: Authentic and less touristy than most.
Enjoy the mountain air and prep for tomorrow’s volcano visit.

Where I stayed: Flores Passport House (IDR 500,000/night).

Day 11: Kelimutu Crater Lakes – Drive to Maumere

Most people hike up Kelimutu for sunrise… but I didn’t. And honestly?

The best time to visit Kelimutu is mid-morning. Why?

· Better lighting for photos

· Fewer people

· You get to sleep in

The crater lakes shift color depending on the mineral content, and legend says they hold the souls of the dead (lighthearted, right?).

Afterwards, drive to Maumere, your final stop.

Day 12: Full Day in Maumere – Ocean Therapy

Waiara Beach: Uncrowded, chill, and perfect for recharging.
Snorkeling/Diving in Maumere Bay: Still pristine and overlooked.
Sikka Village: Rich history, stunning ikat weaving, and a colonial church with ocean views.

Stay beachfront and reflect on how epic your Flores road trip has been.

Where I stayed: Coconut Resort Maumere (IDR 975,000/night).

Packing List: Don’t Leave Without These

Helmet (if biking – seriously, bring a good one). The rental place obviously provide a helmet but you might want to bring your own to make sure it’s a good quality one
Hoodie, jacket, and layers (especially for Ruteng & Bajawa)
Bring a proper rain jacket - not one of those flimsy 10k Indomaret ponchos that’ll fall apart before the rain even starts
Cash, most roadside stops don’t take cards
Power bank
Sunscreen + sunglasses
Dry bag for electronics
Snacks + water for remote stretches
1L emergency fuel bottle (for motorbike travelers)
Closed shoes (don’t ride in flip-flops!)

Flores Is Not for the Rushed

This isn’t the kind of trip you “fit in” between Zoom calls. It’s slow. Real. Unfiltered. Flores doesn’t shout for your attention, it quietly stuns you.

I mostly stayed at nicer (and slightly more expensive) places, not because I’m fancy, but because after a full day of riding, I figured a solid night’s sleep was non-negotiable and I wasn’t about to risk it on a mystery mattress. Riung and Wae Rebo were the one exception, though, I had to make do with what was available, which wasn’t much.

Doing the Labuan Bajo to Maumere overland trip, especially by motorbike, was one of the most rewarding things I’ve ever done. I saw sunset over mountains, rode through rain, laughed with strangers, and found magic in unexpected places.

If you're up for an adventure with no shortcuts and no fluff, Flores is waiting.