Sailing the Spice Islands & Rumbling Volcano
Let me just start with this: if you want to feel like a 16th-century spice trader without the scurvy, or like you're starring in your own National Geographic episode (minus the camera crew and the budget), the Banda Sea is it. This pocket of the Indonesian archipelago is so remote, so raw, and so rich in history and biodiversity, that I honestly wonder why people aren’t tripping over themselves to get here.
The answer? It used to be hard to reach. These days, not so much and that’s exactly why you should go now, before the world catches on.
A Map Dot Packed with Legends
The Banda Sea lies between Sulawesi, Papua, and the Maluku Islands. It's home to the original Spice Islands, yes, those spice islands that had European empires fighting tooth and cannon over nutmeg like it was powdered gold. Today? Still dreamy, but blessedly cannonball-free.
The Itinerary: Sailing Through Time (and Space)
My journey started in Ambon, where the scent of cloves practically clings to the air and mopeds outnumber sense. From there, we sailed south, weaving through the tiny Banda archipelago, stopping at places with names like Run (the island the British traded Manhattan for, no, seriously), Hatta (named after Indonesia’s first vice president), and Banda Neira.
Banda Neira: The Beating Heart of the Sea
Banda Neira is where history slaps you in the face. In a good way. Picture this: an old Dutch fort, spice warehouses with wooden shutters, colonial mansions now crumbling under vines, and a still-active volcano looming in the background. Banda Api ("Fire Mountain," because obviously) erupted as recently as 1988 and still puffs occasionally, as if to remind everyone who's boss.
And yes, you can climb it. It’s a sweaty, lung-busting hike up volcanic rock and ash, but the view from the top? Just surreal. You’ll see the whole crescent of the Banda Islands below you, ringed in coral reefs, and all that blue stretching out forever.
And the diving? It’s basically an aquarium.
Why Were Spices So Important?
Back in the day, nutmeg and cloves weren’t just flavor enhancers, they were luxury items worth more than their weight in gold. In Europe, spices were coveted not just for taste, but for their ability to preserve meat, mask questionable odors, and as supposed medicinal wonders. Nutmeg, for example, was believed to cure the plague, boost libido, and ward off evil spirits. (You know, the basics.)
With no refrigeration and a fascination for anything exotic, Europeans were willing to pay obscene prices for these rare commodities. Since nutmeg and cloves only grew in these remote corners of Indonesia, whoever controlled the supply basically controlled the profits. Which explains the colonial obsession, the monopoly wars, and the sheer brutality that followed.
So yes, wars were fought, cities were traded, and lives were lost... all for the spice you now casually sprinkle on your latte.
The Forgotten Islands: Remote, Rugged, Ridiculously Beautiful
After Banda Neira, we headed east toward the fabled Forgotten Islands. And let me tell you, they're not just a poetic name. These islands are so remote that even Indonesians sometimes ask, "Wait, where's that?"
Sermata, Dai, and Teun
These islands have barely any infrastructure, which is part of their charm. Think traditional sailing canoes, palm-leaf roofs, and kids waving from the shore like you're the first boat they've seen all year. In a world where everything is on Instagram before you finish your coffee, this kind of offline magic is rare.
Life Onboard: Salt Hair and Sea Legs
If you’ve never lived on a boat for a week or more, here’s a taste: sunrise coffee on the bow, snorkeling before breakfast, island hikes, stories under the stars, and the kind of deep, salty sleep you didn’t know your body craved.
Meals Spiced With, Well, Spices
Of course, sailing the Spice Islands means your meals are infused with the local goods. Nutmeg in your banana pancakes, clove-scented tea, and sambal that'll make your eyebrows sweat. We even had fresh-caught tuna grilled on the deck while anchored beside an uninhabited atoll. It doesn’t get more idyllic (or delicious) than that.
The History: Bloody, Spicy, and Bonkers
Let’s circle back to the history for a sec because it’s wild. The Dutch East India Company, or VOC, essentially colonized the Banda Islands for nutmeg. And they didn’t exactly ask nicely. In 1621, Jan Pieterszoon Coen led a brutal campaign to wipe out the native Bandanese population when they refused to submit to a Dutch monopoly on nutmeg. Thousands were slaughtered in cold blood, enslaved, or exiled. Entire villages were burned to the ground. Those who survived were forced to work the nutmeg plantations under harsh conditions.
This was a genocide, not just conquest and the legacy still lingers. When you visit these islands, you’re standing on ground soaked in both beauty and blood.
A Tiny Island That Once Rivaled New York
Now, let’s talk about Run (or Rhun), a speck of land so small it looks like a typo on the map, but oh, what a history it has. In the 1600s, Run was part of the Banda Islands’ nutmeg empire. At the time, nutmeg wasn’t just a spice, it was a sensation. Europeans believed it could cure the plague, prevent disease, and even spice up their love lives. The demand was through the roof, and Run was covered in wild nutmeg trees.
The English, ever eager for a slice of the spice pie, managed to take control of Run in the early 17th century, infuriating the Dutch who were trying to dominate the lucrative nutmeg trade. This led to decades of skirmishes and sabotage between the two.
Then came one of the weirdest and most consequential real estate deals in history. In 1667, under the Treaty of Breda, the English agreed to give up Run to the Dutch in exchange for a swampy island on the other side of the world, New Amsterdam, later renamed New York.
Yes, that New York.
So, in a spicy nutshell, the Dutch got Run (and monopolized the nutmeg trade for a while), and the British got Manhattan. I don’t think either side realized what they were signing up for, but looking at the skyline of NYC today, it’s safe to say the British won that trade.
And poor little Run? It’s quiet now, peaceful, off the beaten track, and full of nutmeg trees that whisper stories of empires, ambition, and absurd bargains.
A Book Worth Reading: Nathaniel’s Nutmeg
If you're even mildly interested in how something as innocent as nutmeg led to empire-building, murder, and the rise of modern capitalism, read Nathaniel’s Nutmeg by Giles Milton. It reads like an adventure novel but it’s all terrifyingly true. It explains in deliciously dramatic detail how this tiny cluster of islands played an oversized role in shaping global history. You’ll never look at your spice rack the same way again.
Diving in the Banda Sea: The Coral Kingdom
Even if you care nothing about history (you monster), the underwater world here will win you over. The Banda Sea is a diver’s dream. Dramatic drop-offs, pristine coral walls, and pelagics galore.
Hammerhead Season
Come during the right season (usually October-November), and you might just swim through a school of hammerhead sharks. It’s equal parts terrifying and exhilarating. I had goosebumps underwater and not from the cold.
Why are they here, you ask? The Banda Sea sits along migratory paths and deep-water upwellings that attract large pelagics like hammerheads. During these months, water temperatures drop slightly and nutrient-rich currents rise from the deep, drawing in schools of fish which, in turn, draw in predators like the scalloped hammerhead. If you’re lucky (and calm), you’ll witness them glide past in eerie silence, sleek and prehistoric, like something out of a dream.
Local Culture and Unexpected Friendships
Beyond the history and the reefs, what really stayed with me were the people. From the nutmeg farmer who let me try cracking open the fruit, to the school kids who performed a traditional welcome dance even though we arrived late and soaked from a squall, the human connections were golden.
The Kora Kora Canoe: A Vessel of Pride
One of the most striking cultural icons of the region is the kora kora, a traditional war canoe used for centuries by island communities. Long, narrow, and often ornately carved, these canoes were paddled by dozens of men in elaborate synchronized rhythm. Today, they are still used during ceremonies and races. Seeing one glide across the water is like watching living history, a reminder of the fierce independence and pride of the Bandanese people.
Trading Stories, Not Just Spices
We brought books and snorkel masks for the village kids and left with stories that will live rent-free in my heart forever. One woman even gifted us fresh kenari nuts from her backyard tree, explaining how they’re pounded into a kind of buttery paste that tastes like peanut butter’s cooler cousin.
From Trash to Treasure: Maga’s Recycling Project in Banda
While Banda’s history is steeped in nutmeg and colonial drama, its present is shaped by passionate locals like Maga, a quiet yet determined islander who’s turning plastic waste into something truly beautiful. (Ps. He is also a local guide who speaks English really well)
Maga noticed how single-use plastics were creeping into the islands, especially with tourism picking up. Instead of waiting for someone else to fix the problem, he started a grassroots recycling project in collaboration with local women. Together, they collect discarded plastic wrappers and bags, clean them, and then transform them, quite literally. into vibrant, handwoven purses, totes, and beach bags.
Each piece is unique and colorful, and every stitch tells a story, not only of environmental responsibility, but also of community empowerment. These women, many of whom had few economic opportunities before, are now earning money and taking pride in their craft.
You’ll find their creations at small stalls near the port in Banda Neira or during weekly markets. And trust me, buying one of their bags feels a whole lot better than snagging another fridge magnet. It’s a souvenir with purpose and a conversation starter, too.
Things I Wish I Knew Beforehand
There is signal in some areas now, including Banda Neira. I even managed to post an Insta story from a fort.
There’s also an ATM in Banda Neira but still bring some cash just in case.
Nutmeg is not just for baking. Locals make nutmeg syrup, jam, even nutmeg soap.
The sea can be rough. Motion sickness pills are your friends.
Pack more swimwear than you think you need. You’ll live in it.
How to Get There: The Journey to the Journey
The easiest way to get to the Banda Islands is to fly into Ambon (AMQ), which is well connected to major hubs like Jakarta and Makassar. From Ambon, you can either:
Hop on a liveaboard sailing trip (the dreamiest and most immersive way, in my opinion), or
Take the Pelni ferry or small fast boats (less comfy, more chaotic, but much cheaper).
Pro tip: The sailing season is best between October and April when the seas are calmest in this region.
So, Is It Worth It?
Absolutely. Sailing the Banda Sea felt like unlocking a secret level in Indonesia. One with sea monsters (okay, just hammerheads), ancient trade secrets, cinnamon-scented breezes, and echoes of a complicated, painful past.
It’s not the easiest trip, but that’s kind of the point.
If you're craving something raw, real, and rich in stories with equal parts adventure, beauty, and spice; this is the sailing route for you.
Just maybe pack a book about the VOC, a dry bag for your camera, and an open heart. The Banda Sea will take care of the rest.
Thank you for reading and back to happily roaming.