The Captain Warned Me, Then Everything Went Wrong
A land-trip to boost crew’s morale after battling a week of rough seas.
That One Repositioning Trip That Shook Me to My Core
I’ve always known that sailing across eastern Indonesia isn’t just sun, snorkeling, and sashimi-grade sunsets. But this particular crossing from Kaimana to Bitung was something else.
What should have been a chill 4-day liveaboard repositioning turned into 10 stormy days, 50+ hours of slamming swells, one soggy saloon, a local fruit trade, and the kind of seasickness that makes you seriously reconsider your career choices.
Let me tell you all about it: the storms, the crew chaos, the gag reflexes, and the surprising joy of eating papeda in Ternate with your boat family.
The Storm Came for Us, Literally
It all began in Kaimana, where we had just dropped off guests. Our captain had been monitoring a weather system lurking offshore. The forecast didn’t look good, so he made the call:
“We go now — to beat the storm.”
Plot twist: the storm was already behind us.
That night, the Banda Sea turned into a watery war zone. The boat rolled violently, and by 2AM, the captain was knocking on my cabin door which happens to be in the bow. He told me gently but firmly:
“Sleep in the saloon or on the bridge… in case we need to abandon ship.”
What a soothing lullaby.
When “Rough Crossing” Becomes “Please Make It Stop”
We were aiming for Fakfak, the nearest shelter. Normally less than 20 hours away.
This time? It took 30 hours.
The sea tossed us around like a rubber duck in a washing machine.
Only three crew were up: the captain, an engineer, and one deckhand. The rest were knocked out from fatigue or seasickness.
No one could eat. I tried. Everything came back up with interest.
The boat floor became a casualty zone, broken bottles, rolling water gallons, personal belongings flung across the corridor.
My toothbrush ended up in the toilet. Which, honestly, was the least of my concerns by then.
Fakfak: Our Unexpected Oasis
When we finally limped into Fakfak’s sleepy harbor, I nearly cried.
Dry land. Steady ground. A shower. Food. A nap that didn’t involve clinging to a wall.
We stayed for a couple of days to wait for the system to pass. It felt like a luxury resort, even though we were still cleaning up after the storm and realizing a few gallons of drinking water had gone overboard.
Fruit, Friendship, and a Dugout Canoe in Misool
After Fakfak, we set a course for a quick pitstop in the southwest of Misool to meet a dear Papuan friend of ours. He’s a local who often visits the boat when we anchor in Sorong without guests bringing fresh fish for us to grill and hang out like family.
This time, we called ahead (via satellite phone vibes) and asked him to bring fruit. Maybe some local snacks. We were dreaming of bananas and cassava chips like they were Michelin-starred meals.
As we neared his village, a dugout canoe appeared like magic, cutting through the water. He waved cheerfully and pointed to his boat, loaded with everything we asked for.
We gave him petrol, some money, and sincere thanks. He left with a smile and a wave and a final warning:
“Be careful, another storm came through here just a few days ago.”
Gee, thanks. Super comforting.
The Saloon Floods and I Lose the Will to Exist
Back on the water, the sea picked up again. I tried to sleep on the sofa in the saloon, thinking it was the safer, drier option.
Wrong.
Water started seeping into the saloon, despite the doors being tightly shut. One of the engineers, Teddy, ran up from the engine room and yelled:
“WHERE is this water coming from?!”
I lifted my head and croaked:
“I don’t give a crap. I just want to die.”
I was too dizzy to lie down, too dizzy to stand, and frankly too salty both in sweat and attitude to care. Somewhere in there, I reached my personal rock-bottom. Or, more accurately, the boat reached a 40-degree roll and I rolled with it.
Taylor Swift and the Chain Reaction Vomit
Eventually, I found a pocket of peace.
I was on the aft crew mess, reading “The Kite Runner” by Khaled Hosseini from my Kindle, listening to Taylor Swift’s All Too Well (10 Minute Version) because if you’re gonna suffer, you might as well suffer dramatically.
A deckhand joined me. We were laughing at the absurdity of our situation.
Then, without warning, a massive swell hit. He lurched, gagged, and vomited over the rail.
I nearly followed suit.
I had just eaten, and watching him retch sent my stomach into reverse mode.
Course Correction: Rerouting via Ternate
Originally, we were sailing straight to Bitung.
But a new storm loomed near Ternate, and our captain and I sat down to assess the maps, charts, and schedules.
We had to be on time for drydocking in the shipyard and still make the next charter schedule.
After a long conversation and a lot of mental math, we made the decision:
Reroute. Wait it out in Ternate.
We informed the owner and office and set our course; tired, salty, but smarter for it.
Ternate: Land, Lakes, Lava, and Finally… Relief
Even at anchor in Ternate, we didn’t sleep that well.
The swells didn’t give up just because we had. But at least we weren’t being pummeled every second.
And because I’m a firm believer that morale matters, I organized a half-day land tour for the crew.
We had breakfast together, visited a couple of lakes, explored a lava flow, and circumnavigated the entire island in one relaxing afternoon.
It was the first time in over a week our feet touched ground that didn’t sway under us.
The mood shifted. We laughed. We healed. We ordered way too much iced tea and papeda.
Ironically, I was supposed to fly out of Bitung for my annual holiday. But after that 10-day odyssey, I took my flight from Ternate instead. Different island, same salty suitcase.
As I boarded the plane, I looked back at the harbor, feeling relief, pride, and just a little bit of nausea.
No Storm, No Story
Sailing across Indonesia is never boring.
From rogue waves in the Banda Sea to fruit bartering in Misool, from crew breakdowns to Taylor Swift puke triggers, this crossing tested every ounce of patience, humor, and leadership I had.
But I came out of it with one hell of a story.
So if your captain ever says,
“You might not want to sleep in your cabin tonight…”
LISTEN.
And maybe keep a spare toothbrush. You’ll thank me later.
Thanks for reading and now back to happily roaming!